Improving Some Aesthetic and Performance Characteristics of Wool via Synergistic Action of a Protease and a Cationic Silicon Softener

Document Type : Original Article


1 Textile Industries Research Division, National Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt

2 Clothing& Knitting Industries Research Department, Textile Technology Research Institute, Research Center


Production of textile garments with pleasant aesthetic property is always a customer-demand; and the application of eco-friendlier methods to attain this target is driven by the environmental legislation all over the world. This study aims at improving garment appearance and performance attributes of wool fabric by two-consecutive benign processes using a proteolytic enzyme and a functional silicone-based softener. Two commercial proteases, from bovine pancreas Type I and another one from Streptomyces griseus Type XIV, were used in bio-treatment of wool under their respective appropriate conditions. The bio-treated wool fabrics were modified with an aqueous solution of a cationic softener based on‌‌ poly ami‌no siloxane (PAS). The effects of these treatments on some of the physical and mechanical properties of wool fabric were investigated. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) shows the descaled surface of bio-treated wool, and the coated fibre surface of PAS-treated wool. Results of this investigation showed that the drapability, and hence the aesthetic property, of the treated fabric were improved. The finished fabrics were found to be durable against washing for up to 20 cycles in terms of the fabric drapability. Based on the bending length, drape coefficient, wettability, smoothness, yellowness index, and AC electrical conductivity of the treated wool fabrics, two samples were assigned to be used in prediction of the garment appearance and aesthetic using CLO3D simulation software. This evaluation proved that the sample treated with protease enzyme from Streptomyces griseus Type XIV followed by aftertreatment with PAS exhibited the best drapeability among the other treated samples.


Volume 65, Issue 131 - Serial Number 13
Special Issue: Chemistry and Global Challenges (Part A)
December 2022
Pages 327-338
  • Receive Date: 27 June 2022
  • Revise Date: 06 July 2022
  • Accept Date: 31 July 2022